The ceiling is often the hardest part of finishing a basement. It used to be that you either had to put in a drop ceiling (which can be tedious) or drywall the ceiling (which is neck-straining and back-breaking). Not any more.

A small, Warren company, I.G. Creative Solutions Inc., (888) 449-4787, www.zipupceiling.com, has developed the Zip-Up Ceiling System. The system uses a PVC rail system that connects directly to the joists and snap-in 12- or 16-foot PVC panels. The Zip-Up Ceiling only takes up 2 inches of headroom.

You can order the materials direct from I.G. Creative Solutions or special order from Consumers Lumber, (586) 469-4444, or John's Lumber, (800) 440-9860.

Installation is very easy. At right is a brief outline of all you have to do:

Slide the trim up against the wall until it rests on the bottom of the ceiling joists. Then screw the trim into the wall.

Cut off 1-inch of the zip connector on each side of ceiling panel and put into place.

Tuck the panel into the lower channel of the trim. The trim will support the panel.

Put the next rail into place and tuck the panel into its lower channel. Now screw the rail into the joist.

Put the next panel into place and tuck it into the rail.

Continue with the rail/panel method that was previously explained until you finish the entire room.

Supplies

Materials needed: Zip-Up Ceiling Kit including wall trim, main rails, panels, seam rails and seam cap, 1 1/2 -inch dry-wall screws.

Tools needed: Tin snips, utility knife, hack saw, tape measure, chalk line and power drill/screwdriver.

How to install

1. Measure the room. You will need enough trim to equal the circumference. Use Zip-Up's online calculator to determine the number of panels and rails you will need.

2. Box the lighting fixture or other pipes or ducts work that extend lower than 2 inches from the joists.

3. Install wall trim around the room. Push the trim against the wall, and then slide up until the trim rests against the bottom of the ceiling joists. Screw into wall.

4. Ceiling panels have zip connectors on both sides. Snip off a 1-inch length of the zip connector at each corner of the panel.

5. Start tucking the panel into the lower channel of the trim. The trim supports the panel and holds it in place.

6. Put the rail into place. Tuck the panel into the lower channel of the rail. The panel will temporarily support the rail.

7. Push the rail up to the joist and attach with 1 1/2 -inch drywall screws to the joists that reach lowest. Not all joists are the same height. Just use the low joists. This means that you may only attach the rail to every other, or even every third joist. The rail requires little support. Do not drive screws all the way in. Leave a little room for the rail and panel to flex.

8. Pick up the next panel and tuck it into place. Be sure the panel juts into the trim at the front edge.

9. Continue across the room, panel/rail, panel/rail. When you have traversed the room, tuck panel into trim.

10. If the room is more than one panel in length, push the seam rail flush into the panels and rails. Attach to joists.

11. Begin the second row just like you started the first panel. Continue on until ceiling is finished.

12. Push sealing caps onto seam rails to trim.

13. Canister, hanging and florescent lights can be easily cut into panels in accordance to the Zip-Up Ceiling Installation Guide.